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Gravel Calculator

Gravel calculator: square feet

Already know the square footage? Skip the length and width fields and go straight from area to tons, yards and bags.

Gravel calculator: square feet

Already know the square footage? Skip the length and width fields and go straight from area to tons, yards and bags.

Units
Shape of the area

Measure the full length of the gravel area.

Use the average width if the area tapers slightly.

The thickness of the gravel layer you intend to lay.

Depths shown are common starting points, not a specification. What a job needs depends on the soil, drainage, load and local practice.

Leave blank to use the typical figure for this material, or enter the density your supplier quotes.

Waste and compaction allowance

Extra material for spillage, uneven ground, cuts and the fact that loose gravel settles once it is compacted.

Bagged gravel
Cost

This is your own quote worked through, not a live local price. Delivery, fuel charges and minimums vary widely between yards.

Delivery

Capacities differ by vehicle and by what the axle weight limits allow locally. Use the figure your supplier gives you.

Supplier rules

Most yards will not sell an arbitrary quantity. Enter their minimum and increment and the order is rounded to match.

Enter your dimensions to see how much gravel you need.

Results are estimates for planning. Bulk density varies by supplier, moisture and how much the material is compacted, so confirm quantities with your supplier before ordering.

Gravel calculator: square feet

Starting from an area you already have

Sometimes the square footage is the number you already know, from a site plan, a listing, or a previous measurement, and re-deriving it from length and width is an unnecessary step. This page opens straight to that input: type the square footage and the depth, and everything downstream, volume, weight, bags, cost, follows exactly the same engine every other calculator on this site uses.

From square feet to a purchase

Square feet times depth in feet gives cubic feet. Divide by 27 for cubic yards. Multiply cubic yards by the material's density for tons. Each step is exact arithmetic except the density, which is a published planning value you can override with your supplier's own figure. The calculator does every step and shows the working, so a stated square footage turns into an order quantity rather than stopping at a volume.

When square footage alone isn't quite enough

A number like 500 square feet doesn't say anything about the shape of that area, and for a job with an odd corner or an L shape, the true square footage is often miscounted by hand. If you are still measuring rather than working from a known figure, the sections tool on the main calculator lets you split an irregular shape into rectangles and add them up correctly, which is more reliable than eyeballing a total.

When area is the number you start with

Most people arrive at a gravel project by measuring length and width on site, but that is not the only way a project starts. A landscaper's quote, a site plan, a building permit drawing or a simple pace-count around a yard often hands you a square footage directly, with no individual dimensions attached to it. This calculator exists for that situation specifically: you already have the one number that matters for an area based job, so there is no reason to reverse-engineer a length and width just to re-multiply them back into the same figure. Enter the area above and the tool carries it straight through to volume and weight, skipping the step most other calculators on this site start with.

The catch with a bare area figure is that it throws away shape information, and shape matters the moment the space is not a clean rectangle. An L-shaped bed, a path that curves around a tree, or a yard with a bite taken out of one corner can all report the same total square footage while needing gravel delivered and spread very differently, especially near the narrow sections where the depth you can actually maintain is tighter than it is across an open middle. If your 500 square feet is really three separate rectangles added together, it is usually more accurate to run each one through the cubic yards calculator on its own and sum the results, rather than trusting one combined area figure to behave the same as three real ones laid side by side.

Area alone also cannot tell the calculator how thick to make the layer, and that gap is worth closing before you commit to a number. Depth is a separate decision driven by what the gravel is doing: a decorative top dressing sits shallower than a base carrying foot or vehicle traffic, and a path that will see wheelbarrows or bikes needs more depth than a purely ornamental bed that nobody actually walks across. The gravel depth calculator is the place to check that relationship directly if you are unsure which way to round, since it works from the opposite direction, telling you what depth a given quantity will reach rather than what quantity a given depth needs. Get the depth figure settled first, because every ton and every bag count downstream depends on it, and a half inch error compounds across the full area in a way it would not across a small test patch near the edge of the bed.

Once the volume comes out the other end, the practical question becomes how to buy it, and that decision usually comes down to scale rather than preference. Small areas, driveway edging, a bed around a mailbox, a narrow strip along a fence line, are usually cheaper in bags, since bagged material carries no delivery fee and you only pay for what the project actually needs, with no minimum order to clear. Larger areas flip that logic: bulk gravel priced by the ton or the yard becomes cheaper once the volume clears a few tons, because a flat delivery fee spreads across more material and the per unit price for bulk stone undercuts bags by a wide margin at that scale. The gravel bag calculator and the tons calculator both start from the same area and volume math as this page, so switching between them costs nothing once you have already measured the space and settled on a depth.

Before you order, it is worth adding a buffer to the raw volume figure rather than ordering exactly what the math returns. Spreading gravel by hand or by machine never achieves perfect coverage: some settles into low spots, some gets tracked off the edge of the area while unloading, and compaction pulls a layer down slightly once it is driven or walked on repeatedly over the following weeks. A small overage, kept on site or used to top up thin spots later, costs far less than a second delivery for a shortfall discovered halfway through a job, when a partial truckload or a long drive back to the yard eats into any savings from ordering lean in the first place. If you are unsure whether your project needs a square footage approach at all versus working backward from a budget, the general how much gravel do I need guide walks through picking the right calculator for the information you actually have on hand, and the coverage calculator is useful if you want to flip the question around and see how far a fixed quantity of gravel you have already bought will reach across your space.

Frequently asked questions

How much gravel do I need for 500 square feet?

It depends on the depth. At 2 inches, 500 square feet needs about 3.1 cubic yards, roughly 4.3 tons of a typical crushed stone. At 4 inches, that doubles to about 6.2 cubic yards and 8.6 tons. Enter your own depth above; the difference between 2 and 4 inches is exactly double the material, which is why depth matters more than almost any other input.

How do I convert square feet to cubic yards for gravel?

Multiply the square footage by the depth in feet (inches divided by 12), which gives cubic feet, then divide by 27. For 500 square feet at 3 inches: 500 times 0.25 is 125 cubic feet, divided by 27 is 4.63 cubic yards. This calculator does that conversion for you and carries it through to tons and bags in the same step.

How do I convert square feet to tons of gravel?

Multiply the square footage by the depth in feet to get cubic feet, divide by 27 for cubic yards, then multiply by the density for tons. For 500 square feet at 3 inches: 500 times 0.25 is 125 cubic feet, which is 4.63 cubic yards, or about 6.5 tons at a density of 1.4. The calculator does every step and shows the working.

How much gravel do I need for 200 square feet?

At 2 inches deep, 200 square feet needs about 1.2 cubic yards, roughly 1.7 tons of a typical crushed stone. At 4 inches deep, that doubles to about 2.5 cubic yards and 3.5 tons. Enter your own depth above; the difference between 2 and 4 inches is exactly double the material, which is why depth matters more than almost any other input.

How many square feet does 1 cubic yard of gravel cover?

162 square feet at 1 inch deep, 81 square feet at 2 inches, or 54 square feet at 3 inches. These figures are pure geometry: a cubic yard is 27 cubic feet, and dividing by the depth in feet gives the coverage. The calculator shows this relationship and lets you compare depths to see how the coverage changes.

What if I only know the square footage, not the length and width?

This page is designed for exactly that situation. Enter the square footage and the depth directly, and the calculator works out the volume, weight, bags and cost without needing to re-derive the area from length and width. For irregular shapes where the square footage came from a site plan, this saves a step.

How deep should gravel be for a 300 square foot patio?

For a gravel patio, 2 to 4 inches is common depending on the use. A decorative patio uses 2 to 3 inches, while a patio that also serves as a base for pavers may need more. At 3 inches deep, 300 square feet needs about 2.8 cubic yards or roughly 3.9 tons. Enter your own depth above for the exact figure.

How much does gravel cost per square foot?

It depends on the depth and the material. At 2 inches deep and a typical density, one square foot needs about 0.017 tons of gravel. Multiply by your supplier's price per ton to get the per-square-foot cost. The calculator shows the total tonnage so you can divide by your area to verify, or use the cost panel for the total project cost.