Gravel calculator for a concrete slab
Work out the compacted gravel base under a concrete slab, the layer that controls drainage and settling.
Gravel calculator for a concrete slab
Work out the compacted gravel base under a concrete slab, the layer that controls drainage and settling.
Enter your dimensions to see how much gravel you need.
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Results are estimates for planning. Bulk density varies by supplier, moisture and how much the material is compacted, so confirm quantities with your supplier before ordering.
Gravel calculator for a concrete slab
What the gravel under a slab is actually doing
A concrete slab poured directly onto bare soil moves with that soil: it heaves when the ground swells with moisture and cracks when the ground settles unevenly. A compacted gravel base breaks that connection. It also drains water away from underneath the slab instead of letting it sit there and freeze, which is one of the more common ways a slab cracks in a climate with real winters.
Depth and material for a slab base
Four to six inches of a compacting material, crusher run or a dense graded stone, is a common starting point for a residential slab such as a patio pad or a small outbuilding floor, with more depth on soft or poorly draining soil. A clean washed stone that won't compact into a solid layer is the wrong choice here, which is why this page defaults to crusher run rather than a decorative or drainage stone.
Compaction matters more here than on most jobs
A slab base has to be mechanically compacted, not just spread and left, because a slab poured onto loose gravel will settle as that gravel compacts under its own weight later, taking the concrete with it. This is one reason the waste and compaction allowance on the calculator is worth taking seriously here rather than defaulting it to zero: the loose volume you order needs to be enough to still be the specified depth after it's been properly compacted.
Why the base outlasts the slab's finish
The gravel layer under a concrete slab is easy to underrate because it disappears the moment the concrete is poured and never gets looked at again, yet it does more to determine how the slab performs over the following years than almost any other single decision in the project. A slab poured directly onto bare, unprepared soil will move with that soil, cracking or heaving as it freezes, thaws, dries or absorbs water unevenly across the footprint over successive seasons. The gravel base interrupts that relationship: it drains water away from directly under the slab and it gives the concrete a stable, even surface to rest on, so the soil's own movement matters far less once a properly built base sits between the two layers. This is also why skipping the base entirely to save a delivery fee is a false economy: the cost of the gravel is small relative to the cost of breaking out and repouring a slab that has cracked from below, and a base that was never there cannot be added back in afterward without removing the concrete above it first.
Depth and material for a slab base are chosen with both of those jobs in mind at once, drainage and load support, which is why crusher run rather than a rounded or decorative stone is the standard material here. Its angular particles lock together under compaction into a dense structural layer, while the voids between properly graded particles still let water pass through rather than pooling against the underside of the slab after rain. A base that is too shallow fails on the load support side first, showing up as cracking under concentrated weight; a base on soil that was never properly drained fails on the water side instead, showing up as heaving in freeze prone climates where trapped moisture expands. Checking local frost depth guidance before finalizing the base thickness is worth the extra few minutes, since the right depth for a mild climate is often not enough where the ground freezes hard every winter. If the same slab needs drainage gravel along one edge to carry water away from the site, the drainage gravel calculator handles that separate zone with its own area and depth figures.
Compaction matters more for a slab base than for almost any other gravel application on this site, because once concrete is poured on top there is no practical way to go back and fix a soft spot underneath it without breaking out the slab itself. The base should be compacted in lifts, thinner layers compacted one at a time rather than one thick layer compacted all at once, since a single deep lift tends to compact well near the surface while leaving the bottom portion loose. That loose bottom layer then settles slowly under the slab's own weight over months or years, which is exactly the slow, uneven settling a good base is supposed to prevent in the first place, and the cost of fixing it after the fact is far higher than compacting it properly in lifts up front.
A detail worth deciding before you order rather than after: the base generally should extend a short distance beyond the slab's own edges, not stop flush with the formwork, because the perimeter of a slab is where edge support matters most and where a base that ends exactly at the visible boundary is most likely to erode or settle unevenly first. Measuring the base area slightly larger than the planned slab footprint and entering that larger figure above, rather than the slab's own dimensions, builds that margin in from the start instead of discovering the shortfall once the forms are already set.
Once the gravel volume is settled, it is worth running the slab itself through the concrete calculator or the more specific concrete slab calculator so the two material orders, base and pour, are planned together rather than as separate afterthoughts arriving on different schedules, and the paver base calculator is a useful cross check if part of the same site transitions from a poured slab to a paved surface using a related base depth that should stay consistent across the boundary. It is worth confirming with the concrete supplier or crew what base depth and compaction they expect to see before the pour, since some crews will refuse to pour onto a base they consider inadequate, and finding that out the day of the pour costs far more time than confirming it during planning.
Frequently asked questions
How much gravel do I need under a concrete slab?
For a 200 square foot slab with a 4 inch compacted gravel base, that's about 67 cubic feet, or 2.5 cubic yards, roughly 3.7 tons of a typical crusher run. Enter your own slab dimensions above for the exact figure, and keep the compaction allowance switched on since this is a layer that specifically has to end up compacted.
What kind of gravel goes under a concrete slab?
A compacting material such as crusher run or a dense graded crushed stone, not a clean washed stone. The base has to lock together into a firm, stable layer under compaction; a washed stone with no fines will never do that and will keep shifting under the slab instead of supporting it.
How thick should gravel be under a concrete slab?
Four to six inches of compacted crusher run is a common starting point for residential slabs such as patio pads and small outbuilding floors. Soft or poorly draining soil may need more depth. The calculator defaults to 4 inches but lets you enter any depth, and the tonnage updates automatically for your slab dimensions.
Do I need to compact gravel under a slab?
Yes. A slab poured onto loose gravel will settle as that gravel compacts under the slab's own weight later, taking the concrete with it. The gravel base must be mechanically compacted before the pour. This is one reason the waste and compaction allowance on the calculator is worth taking seriously for a slab base.
Can I use pea gravel under a concrete slab?
No. Pea gravel is rounded and does not compact into a stable layer. It shifts under load, which would cause the slab to settle unevenly and potentially crack over time. Use a compacting material like crusher run or dense graded crushed stone instead, which locks together under compaction and provides a firm, stable base.
How much does a gravel base cost for a concrete slab?
For a 200 square foot slab with a 4 inch base, you need about 2.5 cubic yards or 3.7 tons of crusher run. At typical prices, that is a modest cost compared to the concrete itself. Enter your own slab dimensions and supplier price above for the exact quantity and cost for your project.
What is the purpose of gravel under concrete?
The gravel base breaks the connection between the slab and the soil, preventing the slab from heaving when the ground swells with moisture and settling when the ground dries out. It also drains water away from underneath the slab instead of letting it sit there and freeze, which is one of the more common ways a slab cracks in cold climates.
Should gravel extend beyond the slab edges?
Extending the gravel base 6 to 12 inches beyond the slab on each side is common practice, because it provides support at the edges where the slab is most vulnerable. The calculator works from the area you enter, so include the extended base dimensions in your measurements rather than just the slab footprint.